There are few things to be grateful for when it comes to New York real estate – astronomical rents, miniscule square footage and more times than not, the putrid stench of the newest homeless man that has decided to squat in my “frontyard”. Yet once in a blue moon or a lucky peach [momofuku's english translation], you take a stroll around your neighborhood and stumble upon one of the city’s soon-to-be legendary dining destinations.
There’s been multiple-stars awarded, a James Beard bestowed and endless magazine chatter surrounding David Chang and his Momofuku empire, that has sprung up in Manhattan’s east village. Can’t believe the hype? One taste. That’s all I ask…just one taste and you’ll be a Momofuku-lover (not to be confused with harajuku lovers of Gwen Stefani fame). I digress. Although Momofuku Noodle Bar was Chang’s only child for quite some time (when it moved 1 block north, Chang replaced it with the newly opened Momofuku Ko), Momofuku Ssam Bar has to be the overachieving superstar of the brood. Small in stature, sleek in style and warm in its welcome (similarly to how I envision Chang himself to be), the Ssam Bar retains a certain sincerity that is seldom found in the culinary culture of New York.
The influx of asian dining temples has proved underwhelming at best. Besides what I consider the jewels of this recent invasion, Buddakan and Morimoto, only Chang is able to capture his ancestral land’s cuisine in its purest of forms. Momofuku Ssam Bar is founded mainly on Korean street food. The use of natural ingredients and simple presentation create strong & flavorful dishes that, unlike lowbrow Asian cuisine, do not overwhelm the palate but rather, tickle the tongue. It’s this cleverly orchestrated dance of color, texture and spice that makes Chang’s food so incredibly comforting…without leaving you with an overwhelming feeling of guilt for having skipped out on the gym for the last 2 weeks.
Similar to Buddakan, the dishes are meant to be shared. The portions cover a two person share-fest best and each plate complements the next. No matter what order the kitchen doles out your choices, the suave, hipster servers keep this delectable dance moving in perfect time, while bouncing to the indie rock soundtrack being piped in overhead. If I’m to make an ideal meal (which I attempt to redefine with every visit to the Ssam Bar), my Necessary Nibbles would be:
+ steamed buns (juicy and tender pork belly complemented by the pillow-like bun and layered with hoisin sauce, cucumbers and scallions)
+ hangar steak ssam (the meat is seasoned & cooked to perfection at medium rare, and paired with lettuce “wraps” and kimchi…mmmmm!)
+ banh mi (crispy ciabatta bread with sumptuous veal, chicken liver and ham terrines topped with a smorgasboard of veggies)
+ grilled veal sweetbreads (there is an art to grilling and that art comes to life in these babies – if you’ve put off trying sweetbreads in the past, here is your chance to experience them at their best)
+ raw oysters or the squid and shrimp stew (most of us will be “meated out” at this point. As such, I’d opt for either of these. The stew is very reminiscent of Thai curries – a little sweet, a little spicy, a lot of satisfaction)
FYI: it’s first come, first served so don’t think you’re going to be crafty and nab my spot on the reservation list SUCKA!
~ ciao chow for now ~
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MOMOFUKU SSAM BAR
207 Second Avenue @ 13th Street / ph: 212.254.3500
