themealdeal

A few weeks ago, I decided to revisit my youth by indulging in a Sunday Funday along the East Village.  Brunch began, drinks were drunk and general debauchery ensued.  A friend of mine who has GMed some of the better known restos around town, invited my pals and I to continue our drinkfest with a stop at the European Union – a great little spot in the East Village that serves up pan-european gastro-pub grub.  Being a man in-the-know, my friend snuck us in prior to the dinner onrush and saddled us up at the bar with a few bottles of a great Spanish Rioja.  Upon our departure (en route to even more bars in Williamsburg), I was introduced to a former EU chef who was hanging barside with the staff.  Without a glance, I stuffed his new business card in my bag and merrily rolled on.

Two weeks later, the buzz began to erupt about the long-anticipated opening of Elettaria, the newest venture from Akhtar Nawab and Noel Cruz.  Nawab, a Colicchio protege had most recently helmed the EU kitchen to quite favorable reviews; and it turned out that my mysterious EU acquaintance had recently been whisked away by Nawab to be Elettaria’s inaugural sous chef.   

One night after its opening, two of my go-to gastronomes met me inside the bustling hotspot just passed the bright red frontdoor and alongside the “staircase to nowhere” that lines the right entrance wall.  The decor is literally 50% Bobo and 50% Allen & Delancey, the two other joints that the designers had recently completed.  The roomy, round banquettes that face the spacious bar area flank one end of the restaurant, with the other end occupied by the completely open kitchen.  Exposed brick, wood beams and eclectic details including a painting who’s frame seems to disappear into the ceiling, create a warm, townhouse-like setting.  In sharp contrast to the unique decor, the music was utterly boring & monotonous…obviously paying no tribute to Jimi Hendrix & the like, that once rocked the 8th Wonder [the legendary bar that once occupied the space].

Yet the signature cocktail menu from the minds of Freeman’s and Death & Co alums, does pay homage to both.  Mr. Jimi’s Electric Ladyland a combination of pisco, rose jam, lime and champagne was my first drink of choice.  The tropically-bent list also features the Zombie Punch, a mix of various rums kicked up a notch by Absinthe and outfitted in a tiki glass no less, and the Rita Hayworth, pineapple/sage infused tequila with lime and honey (YUH-UMs).

Though the cocktails showed strong, there were obvious signs of opening week jitters.  First and foremost, our waiter’s inability to offer up much of any info about the menu options.  Secondly, that many of them were not even available for the picking that evening.  Our mood brightened somewhat, when we spotted Top Chef Season 1 champ, Harold Dieterle exiting – a sort of celebrity sighting to this TC fanatic.  We trudged along ordering a smorgasboard of what was being cooked up. 

 ”I don’t think I’ve ever met a pig I didn’t like.” Those were the words uttered by my friend upon tasting the Stuffed Pig’s Feet w/watercress, frisee & cashews.  Though pig’s feet tend to be on the realm of sweetbreads when it comes to “weirdness factor” to the general public, themealdeal usually loves them!  This time our table found them completely unpalatable – so much so, that our waiter actually shot us a look of total confusion as he removed the plate still covered in the sorry pig’s remains.  Remove foot from mouth and insert Dayboat Scallops w/celery root puree, oxtail, meyer lemon & cilantro.  An unexpected twist on surf & turf, this dish was innovative and absolutely delicious.  The Lamb Sausage and Cured Kanpachi also showed well.

Who orders Roasted Chicken at a hot, new restaurant opening? Well my ladyfriend did and though we chuckled, her dish paired w/sweet & sour tomato ravioli and smoked sunchokes, was actually the tastiest and most comforting.  The Bavette w/salsify, maitake mushrooms & fenugreek was a close second.  Though initially excited about the prospect of Wild Boar, marrow, cumin, orange and vermicelli….the ultimate outcome was pure sadness.  The texture was beautiful but the taste, well…didn’t exist and my abundant portion got sent back only half-eaten.

Lately every opening seems to be simply a slight variation on the previous.  The menu is fused with two new cuisines, the decor is slightly retouched and added to the cocktails are stranger and stronger ingredients.  Now I dig Allen & Delancey and Bobo (look out for both reviews being pulled FROM THE VAULT soon) but Elettaria just seemed to be the Cinderella of the bunch – not of the glass slipper variety but as the grungy, forgotten underling.  I’m hoping a team of cartoon mice or a fairy godmother will help Elettaria iron out the kinks.  Either way, upon my return I’ll have the Zombie Punch to start w/extra Absinthe…hoping a hallucinatory effect of ecstasy will cloud my judgement in Cinderelly’s favor.     

~ ciao chow for now ~
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ELETTARIA
33 West 8th Street nr MacDougal / ph: 212.677.3833