themealdeal

As of late, I seem to have morphed into one of those bitter New Yorkers who remarks at everything “new” to this city, as something old just being reincarnated into something less cool than the original.  Case in point, French bistros.  If it weren’t for my adoration of steak frites with bountiful amounts of bearnaise, I probably wouldn’t even attempt to mosey into any of the fresh French openings around town.  Truth be told, I still always bet on Pastis above all else, for dependable, decently priced French fare (from the fries to the martini); with its baby brother Schiller’s as a close second (especially at brunch time – eggs hussarde what what!).  Yet time and again, I still venture into the hot and happenin New York dining world in hopes that someone will take what has become yet another tired, old formula and reinvision it as something that will knock this hep cat’s socks off.

 I was recently taken to a show featuring what I consider to be a pretty decent (and well voiced) band, The Kin.  Being that my escort and I had to get to the Highline Ballroom for a 9pm set, I took my fellow Pastis enthusiast to a new bistro in the Meatpacking, Bagatelle.  I told him I couldn’t vouch for how good the steaks would be in comparison but thought it due time for us to get our frites-on elewhere.  The venture from the people behind Kiss & Fly (located directly next door), leaves the thumpin beats and mini-skirted raucousness of the MPD behind and quickly catapults you to a den of subtle sophistication.  The prominent modern art pieces and abundant use of candles pair quite nicely against the clean white walls that line the large room.  The Parisian bistro chairs, spacious tables and well filtered music fill this 90-seater with that certain je ne sais quoi.

The small bar area is perfectly situated along the back wall and serves up some mean mixology.  The drink of choice for both my Kin date and my 11 lady deep, off-to-London going away dinner (for a friend…lest I be so lucky) was Le Poire Royale – one of Bagatelle’s stellar champagne cocktails .  I’d opt for that or Le Blues Manhattan which features Makers Mark with muddled blueberries and blackberries, Chambord and sweet vermouth.  The well priced and nicely sized wine list is also a good go-to (we went with a simple Sancerre and Pinot Grigio to pass around the table).The chic environment clad with even chicer patrons works equally well for both intimate twosomes and a gaggle of gals or guys.

I wouldn’t take a serious foodie here and my partner-in-Kin says he’ll stick with Pastis where a similar crowd (the euros outnumbering les americains as usual) but better food can be found.  However, the gal pals [none a serious foodie though all fashionable NYCers who've been around the bistro block a time or two] gave their night at Bagatelle solid marks all around.  Though I would ardently stay away from the carpaccio trio which was offensively devoid of flavor , the tuna tartare paired with plantain chips was pleasing.  The lemon asparagus/parmesan risotto and the coquilles st jacques were comme ci, comme ca; with the calamari a la plancha proving to be the most tantalizing dish of the bunch.   

Though the French are known for their exquisite culinary expertise they are probably known even more so for their sense of style and savoir faire.  So leave the frites to McNally, the haute francais to Ducasse and those seductive (and heavily intoxicated) rendez-vous to Bagatelle.

~ciao chow for now~ 
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BAGATELLE
409 West 13th Street b/w 9th Avenue & Washington / ph: 212.675.2400