Filed under: bar scene, fusion, global, greenwich village, indian, nouveau american
A few weeks ago, I decided to revisit my youth by indulging in a Sunday Funday along the East Village. Brunch began, drinks were drunk and general debauchery ensued. A friend of mine who has GMed some of the better known restos around town, invited my pals and I to continue our drinkfest with a stop at the European Union – a great little spot in the East Village that serves up pan-european gastro-pub grub. Being a man in-the-know, my friend snuck us in prior to the dinner onrush and saddled us up at the bar with a few bottles of a great Spanish Rioja. Upon our departure (en route to even more bars in Williamsburg), I was introduced to a former EU chef who was hanging barside with the staff. Without a glance, I stuffed his new business card in my bag and merrily rolled on.
Two weeks later, the buzz began to erupt about the long-anticipated opening of Elettaria, the newest venture from Akhtar Nawab and Noel Cruz. Nawab, a Colicchio protege had most recently helmed the EU kitchen to quite favorable reviews; and it turned out that my mysterious EU acquaintance had recently been whisked away by Nawab to be Elettaria’s inaugural sous chef.
One night after its opening, two of my go-to gastronomes met me inside the bustling hotspot just passed the bright red frontdoor and alongside the “staircase to nowhere” that lines the right entrance wall. The decor is literally 50% Bobo and 50% Allen & Delancey, the two other joints that the designers had recently completed. The roomy, round banquettes that face the spacious bar area flank one end of the restaurant, with the other end occupied by the completely open kitchen. Exposed brick, wood beams and eclectic details including a painting who’s frame seems to disappear into the ceiling, create a warm, townhouse-like setting. In sharp contrast to the unique decor, the music was utterly boring & monotonous…obviously paying no tribute to Jimi Hendrix & the like, that once rocked the 8th Wonder [the legendary bar that once occupied the space].
Yet the signature cocktail menu from the minds of Freeman’s and Death & Co alums, does pay homage to both. Mr. Jimi’s Electric Ladyland a combination of pisco, rose jam, lime and champagne was my first drink of choice. The tropically-bent list also features the Zombie Punch, a mix of various rums kicked up a notch by Absinthe and outfitted in a tiki glass no less, and the Rita Hayworth, pineapple/sage infused tequila with lime and honey (YUH-UMs).
Though the cocktails showed strong, there were obvious signs of opening week jitters. First and foremost, our waiter’s inability to offer up much of any info about the menu options. Secondly, that many of them were not even available for the picking that evening. Our mood brightened somewhat, when we spotted Top Chef Season 1 champ, Harold Dieterle exiting – a sort of celebrity sighting to this TC fanatic. We trudged along ordering a smorgasboard of what was being cooked up.
”I don’t think I’ve ever met a pig I didn’t like.” Those were the words uttered by my friend upon tasting the Stuffed Pig’s Feet w/watercress, frisee & cashews. Though pig’s feet tend to be on the realm of sweetbreads when it comes to “weirdness factor” to the general public, themealdeal usually loves them! This time our table found them completely unpalatable – so much so, that our waiter actually shot us a look of total confusion as he removed the plate still covered in the sorry pig’s remains. Remove foot from mouth and insert Dayboat Scallops w/celery root puree, oxtail, meyer lemon & cilantro. An unexpected twist on surf & turf, this dish was innovative and absolutely delicious. The Lamb Sausage and Cured Kanpachi also showed well.
Who orders Roasted Chicken at a hot, new restaurant opening? Well my ladyfriend did and though we chuckled, her dish paired w/sweet & sour tomato ravioli and smoked sunchokes, was actually the tastiest and most comforting. The Bavette w/salsify, maitake mushrooms & fenugreek was a close second. Though initially excited about the prospect of Wild Boar, marrow, cumin, orange and vermicelli….the ultimate outcome was pure sadness. The texture was beautiful but the taste, well…didn’t exist and my abundant portion got sent back only half-eaten.
Lately every opening seems to be simply a slight variation on the previous. The menu is fused with two new cuisines, the decor is slightly retouched and added to the cocktails are stranger and stronger ingredients. Now I dig Allen & Delancey and Bobo (look out for both reviews being pulled FROM THE VAULT soon) but Elettaria just seemed to be the Cinderella of the bunch – not of the glass slipper variety but as the grungy, forgotten underling. I’m hoping a team of cartoon mice or a fairy godmother will help Elettaria iron out the kinks. Either way, upon my return I’ll have the Zombie Punch to start w/extra Absinthe…hoping a hallucinatory effect of ecstasy will cloud my judgement in Cinderelly’s favor.
~ ciao chow for now ~
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ELETTARIA
33 West 8th Street nr MacDougal / ph: 212.677.3833
Filed under: bistro, french, good for groups, meatpacking district, romantic
As of late, I seem to have morphed into one of those bitter New Yorkers who remarks at everything “new” to this city, as something old just being reincarnated into something less cool than the original. Case in point, French bistros. If it weren’t for my adoration of steak frites with bountiful amounts of bearnaise, I probably wouldn’t even attempt to mosey into any of the fresh French openings around town. Truth be told, I still always bet on Pastis above all else, for dependable, decently priced French fare (from the fries to the martini); with its baby brother Schiller’s as a close second (especially at brunch time – eggs hussarde what what!). Yet time and again, I still venture into the hot and happenin New York dining world in hopes that someone will take what has become yet another tired, old formula and reinvision it as something that will knock this hep cat’s socks off.
I was recently taken to a show featuring what I consider to be a pretty decent (and well voiced) band, The Kin. Being that my escort and I had to get to the Highline Ballroom for a 9pm set, I took my fellow Pastis enthusiast to a new bistro in the Meatpacking, Bagatelle. I told him I couldn’t vouch for how good the steaks would be in comparison but thought it due time for us to get our frites-on elewhere. The venture from the people behind Kiss & Fly (located directly next door), leaves the thumpin beats and mini-skirted raucousness of the MPD behind and quickly catapults you to a den of subtle sophistication. The prominent modern art pieces and abundant use of candles pair quite nicely against the clean white walls that line the large room. The Parisian bistro chairs, spacious tables and well filtered music fill this 90-seater with that certain je ne sais quoi.
The small bar area is perfectly situated along the back wall and serves up some mean mixology. The drink of choice for both my Kin date and my 11 lady deep, off-to-London going away dinner (for a friend…lest I be so lucky) was Le Poire Royale – one of Bagatelle’s stellar champagne cocktails . I’d opt for that or Le Blues Manhattan which features Makers Mark with muddled blueberries and blackberries, Chambord and sweet vermouth. The well priced and nicely sized wine list is also a good go-to (we went with a simple Sancerre and Pinot Grigio to pass around the table).The chic environment clad with even chicer patrons works equally well for both intimate twosomes and a gaggle of gals or guys.
I wouldn’t take a serious foodie here and my partner-in-Kin says he’ll stick with Pastis where a similar crowd (the euros outnumbering les americains as usual) but better food can be found. However, the gal pals [none a serious foodie though all fashionable NYCers who've been around the bistro block a time or two] gave their night at Bagatelle solid marks all around. Though I would ardently stay away from the carpaccio trio which was offensively devoid of flavor , the tuna tartare paired with plantain chips was pleasing. The lemon asparagus/parmesan risotto and the coquilles st jacques were comme ci, comme ca; with the calamari a la plancha proving to be the most tantalizing dish of the bunch.
Though the French are known for their exquisite culinary expertise they are probably known even more so for their sense of style and savoir faire. So leave the frites to McNally, the haute francais to Ducasse and those seductive (and heavily intoxicated) rendez-vous to Bagatelle.
~ciao chow for now~
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BAGATELLE
409 West 13th Street b/w 9th Avenue & Washington / ph: 212.675.2400
