themealdeal

Every few months, I assemble a little group of friends for a “catch-up” dinner.  This ensemble composed of 4 key players includes: a hipster, vegetarian jet-setter  (though she will occasionally eat fish); an eccentric graphic designer who attempts part-time vegetarianism (she leans away from meat); a flighty event-planning freelancer (who eats any & all scraps left on other people’s plates) and myself (insert description at your leisure).  Needless to say, it’s usually quite difficult to get this Sex and the City wannabe group together.  

Over a very tasty and well-priced, $34 bottle of prosecco , our first toast was accordingly “to having all of us on the same continent let alone the same table”.  Though we had originally planned to do Williamsburg, we were instead led to the West Village at the request of one of the attendees (she wanted to meet up with one of her suitors at a bar in the hood).  This change-up was announced to me at about 4PM the day of the dinner [i.e. ain't no way we're gonna get a res anywhere at that hour].  Lucky for us, the weather was dreadful and cancellations were aplenty.

Having heard much hype surrounding one of the “it” restaurants in recent history, we scored a clutch res and headed to Centro Vinoteca.  Through a small window separating the kitchen and bar area, I spotted Chef Anne Burrell calmly commanding her staff (her spikey white hair is hard to miss).  We were led to the well designed upstairs dining room (request the circular booth near the far window – it’s the best spot in the house).  Our waiter, who came off a bit loopy, was told at one point, to speak-up by my friend.  Once he did, we all gasped at the first special he announced to us….pumpkin croquettes with goat cheese.  We immediately adjusted the rest of our order to accommodate this addition. 

Being that none of my guests hover above 115lbs, I find spots which feature small plates or in this case the Italian term piccolini, to suit this group especially well.  In addition to the croquettes we opted for the zucchini/parmagiano fritters, the pork/pancetta stuffed mushrooms and the gorgonzola dip.  We each gravitated to one particular favorite – mine being the pumpkin croquettes (followed closely behind by the stuffed mushrooms).  The pumpkin croquettes, though diminuitive, struck the perfect balance of sweet and savory.  The mushrooms, moist and overflowing with porky fillings were scrumptious.  My part-time vegetarian-lover (insert Stevie Wonder music) loved the fritters so much she ordered a second helping and the scrappy-do at the other end devoured the tasty gorgonzola dip.

Onto our next course of shared mains. Having arrived home from a 3 week stint in India the night before, the vegetarian was in desperate need of a fish fix.  The Calamari Noodles with fingerling potatoes, black olives and arugula was selected, and with every bite her grin grew larger and larger.  My Farrotto with lobster, mushrooms, mint and oregano was lovingly prepared.  Not overwhelmed by extraneous spices and generously loaded with succulent bits of lobster this dish achieved the perfect level of tastiness.

Centro Vinoteca uses it’s rather odd shaped space quite well and the surprisingly calm atmosphere mixed with the piccolini menu is quite conducive to groups needing a night of grubbing and gabbing.  But what Centro Vinoteca has over most of NYC’s other dining hotspots is the way it takes you out of the city and to a far off place.  Not Italy but…California.  CV reminds me of why I always love most of Cali’s restaurants better than those of my fair ciudad.  What Cali has over the East is the proximity to some of the freshest ingredients.  And if you’ve learned anything from Papa John’s commercials – better ingredients, better pizza…er…piccolini!  The most powerful ingredient those sun-drenched West Coasters seem to overflow with, however, is L-O-V-E…something speed-obsessed New Yorkers tend to lack, especially in the kitchen.  Either Burrell has some black market vendors that get her goods that have apparently eluded other NYC chefs or she’s just that thoughtful and good of a cook!  In this case, I’m opting for the love theory and the fact that Batali’s right-wing has got the chops.  I believe in Burrell, I believe in her food and yeah baby, I believe in love…cuz love (and food) is all we need!

~ciao chow for now~ 
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CENTRO VINOTECA
74 Seventh Avenue South nr Barrow / ph: 212.367.7470