Tis that time of year. Seasonal affective disorder sweeps through the city streets sending the majority of us into hibernation mode for at least a month. And then there is a light…it’s restaurant week! 3 courses for $35 – why that’s the deal of the century [eventhough you ultimately end up coughing up $90 a pop for the additional champagne and multiple bottles of wine your boozer friends force you to down].
My first sojourn into this crazy week o’restaurant was to Perry Street. I had originally visited Perry back when it first opened in 2005. Swarmed with the magazine and fashion elite, it was the restaurant to see and be seen at. The decor, understated modernism, echoed the overall style of the Richard Meier-designed building that houses it. Add a breathtaking view of the Hudson and a chic bar (with some of the most delectable cashews around) and you’ve got an instant hotspot. Trendiness aside, this was another venture from the illustruous Jean-Georges Vongerichten….it had to be good. Thinking back, I honestly don’t even remember what I ate, mainly due to the fact that I was there on someone else’s expense account, which of course equaled an inevitable black-out from too many cucumber martinis!
This time, the meal certainly made an impression on me…unfortunately, a bad memory I wish I could forget. It’s hard to put down Jean-Georges. He is, afterall, the man who brought us the modern classics JoJo, Mercer Kitchen and Spice Market (to name but a few from his empire). But if themealdeal is anything, it’s honest and last night’s poor excecution was a flat-out disappointment.
One glass of bubbly in, I excitedly awaited the arrival of our amuse bouche – a light celery root soup very nicely accented by the contrasting acidity of cranberry vinegar and the pleasant surprise of rosemary. A tad perplexed by this choice – to me it seems more of a summer starter - smiles about the overall taste and consistency were displayed around the table. Always indulgent, my group (a few of my regular dining & drinking compadres) supplemented our 3 course menu with 2 additional appetizers. I personally enjoyed the portobello and avocado carpaccio that was kicked up a notch by jalapeno oil and lime. The plate, however, was finally taken away from the table still replete with pieces of the carpaccio - never a good sign. See when my boys and girls like what they eat, they will lick that plate clean, ya hurd? The second addition, a rice cracker crusted tuna with sriracha was generally enjoyable. The taste of the fried crust was somewhat reminiscent to that of Kentucky Fried Chicken - not necessarily a bad thing especially with the absence of the requisite oiliness. Regardless, a scene-stealer it was not.
And so began our multi-course experiment in Jean-Georges gastronomy. The cheap bastards that are restaurant owners nowadays, have boiled down the majority of restaurant week menus to two choices per course. Come on people, we know this bi-annual promotion draws traffic during the often slow weekdays – so give a brotha a little more selection puh-leez! Obviously we ordered all of the (minimal) choices. The winter staple of creamy tomato soup proved hearty not heavy. The other option, a salad of beets, which glistened under the perfectly lit black-out bulbs overhead, was accented by ricotta and lightly toasted pumpernickel croutons – each adding a nice contrast in consistency. Mood overall: still good.
And then came the entrees. Dun, dun, duuuunnnn! I opted for the chili oil poached cod with roasted baby brussel sprouts and creamy parsnips. Minus the pleasurable parsnip puree, the entree, topped with what tasted like mini-plantain chips, lacked overall flavor. In sharp contrast to the taste-less fish, my neighbor’s grilled tenderloin of beef was nearly inedible. My salt-fiend of a friend was shocked by its overtly abusive use and equally stunned by the addition of abundant amounts of chili pepper and, what he thought to be, anise. Even the pleasant pairing of herbal spinach & liquid gruyere could not save this dish from over-seasoned obliteration.
Neither the flat chocolate pudding nor the white chocolate confection topped by an offensively potent lemon sorbet could save this meal from meltdown. Luckily the Jack & gingers and Perry Street 75s had kicked in just in time for us to be sidetracked from the check’s astonishing total. Shattering our previous record, the per person tally hovered around $100. Yowzas!
Listen, I can’t denounce Perry Street or the consistently dependable Jean-Georges completely. I will attribute this to a momentary lapse of focus during the restaurant week hooplah. However, restaurant week diners are people too! They have the same mouths to feed and pockets to empty, so treat them with respect, give them more choices and for god’s sake Mr. Spice Market, lay off the damn salt-n-pepa!
~ciao chow for now~
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PERRY STREET
176 Perry Street @ West Street / ph: 212.352.1900
There are few things to be grateful for when it comes to New York real estate – astronomical rents, miniscule square footage and more times than not, the putrid stench of the newest homeless man that has decided to squat in my “frontyard”. Yet once in a blue moon or a lucky peach [momofuku's english translation], you take a stroll around your neighborhood and stumble upon one of the city’s soon-to-be legendary dining destinations.
There’s been multiple-stars awarded, a James Beard bestowed and endless magazine chatter surrounding David Chang and his Momofuku empire, that has sprung up in Manhattan’s east village. Can’t believe the hype? One taste. That’s all I ask…just one taste and you’ll be a Momofuku-lover (not to be confused with harajuku lovers of Gwen Stefani fame). I digress. Although Momofuku Noodle Bar was Chang’s only child for quite some time (when it moved 1 block north, Chang replaced it with the newly opened Momofuku Ko), Momofuku Ssam Bar has to be the overachieving superstar of the brood. Small in stature, sleek in style and warm in its welcome (similarly to how I envision Chang himself to be), the Ssam Bar retains a certain sincerity that is seldom found in the culinary culture of New York.
The influx of asian dining temples has proved underwhelming at best. Besides what I consider the jewels of this recent invasion, Buddakan and Morimoto, only Chang is able to capture his ancestral land’s cuisine in its purest of forms. Momofuku Ssam Bar is founded mainly on Korean street food. The use of natural ingredients and simple presentation create strong & flavorful dishes that, unlike lowbrow Asian cuisine, do not overwhelm the palate but rather, tickle the tongue. It’s this cleverly orchestrated dance of color, texture and spice that makes Chang’s food so incredibly comforting…without leaving you with an overwhelming feeling of guilt for having skipped out on the gym for the last 2 weeks.
Similar to Buddakan, the dishes are meant to be shared. The portions cover a two person share-fest best and each plate complements the next. No matter what order the kitchen doles out your choices, the suave, hipster servers keep this delectable dance moving in perfect time, while bouncing to the indie rock soundtrack being piped in overhead. If I’m to make an ideal meal (which I attempt to redefine with every visit to the Ssam Bar), my Necessary Nibbles would be:
+ steamed buns (juicy and tender pork belly complemented by the pillow-like bun and layered with hoisin sauce, cucumbers and scallions)
+ hangar steak ssam (the meat is seasoned & cooked to perfection at medium rare, and paired with lettuce “wraps” and kimchi…mmmmm!)
+ banh mi (crispy ciabatta bread with sumptuous veal, chicken liver and ham terrines topped with a smorgasboard of veggies)
+ grilled veal sweetbreads (there is an art to grilling and that art comes to life in these babies – if you’ve put off trying sweetbreads in the past, here is your chance to experience them at their best)
+ raw oysters or the squid and shrimp stew (most of us will be “meated out” at this point. As such, I’d opt for either of these. The stew is very reminiscent of Thai curries – a little sweet, a little spicy, a lot of satisfaction)
FYI: it’s first come, first served so don’t think you’re going to be crafty and nab my spot on the reservation list SUCKA!
~ ciao chow for now ~
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MOMOFUKU SSAM BAR
207 Second Avenue @ 13th Street / ph: 212.254.3500
Finally!!!!
The time has come for the inaugural post of themealdeal – my go-to guide on all that is tempty and tasty in the delicious big apple that is New York City. Although, my intention is to focus mainly on my homeslice, I also hope to bring you occasional posts about various gourmet haunts that I encounter whilst on my cross-global jaunts. So knife and fork in hand…let’s get to some grubbin!
~ciao chow for now~
